Containment
 
 
 
 
 

"ByukPa" practice jump for the  1997 Jindo Island show

 
 

A Jindo is by nature an independent and territorial dog.   Given the opportunity, a Jindo would love to explore his/her surrounding area and include it into its own territory.  However, allowing Jindos to run free around the neighborhood can lead to problems for you, your neighbors, and your Jindo.

If your free-roaming Jindo does not get hit by a car, it can develop some undesirable habits as it wanders around. Whenever a dog is allowed to wander freely in his/her neighborhood, the dog then in its mind believes the entire area it roamed in is his/hers. So if the dog roams 4 blocks in one way and 3 blocks in another - that's the territory  the dog considers as his/hers.  Strangers, kids, neighbors, and other dogs are considered intruders and occur the full wrath of a territorial  Jindo. This can in term lead to the stranger being badly hurt, the dog being destroyed, and the owner being held liable for damages.  The reputation of the entire breed is soiled and home insurance rates skyrocket to cover the possibility of the owners being sued.  The Akita and Chow are just two breeds on several dangerous dog lists or breed bans.  It only takes the actions of a few irresponsible Jindo owners to add the Jindo to those lists.

This being said, the best way to avoid these situations is to know how to properly confine your Jindo.  There are several options when it comes to this.  Here are some of them:

 
 1.  Unsupervised dogs are placed in a kennel such as the ones pictured below.
 

The easiest available kennels are made out of chain-link fencing.  Success varies on how well this works and depends highly on the dog and the construction of the kennel.  Some dogs are actually capable of stretching the links far enough to escape their kennels.  Other dogs climb the links and escape over the top of the kennel.  Still others are content to leave the boundaries alone.
 

Pictured below are kennels that have worked for Jindos in Korea.

Photo by Mr. Woo of the Korean National Dog Association.(p.139. 178)

Note that the cage has an enclosed shade, minimal horizontal bars to prevent climbing, a solid floor to prevent digging, and a dog house to give a soft den and protection from the elements.  There is enough space for the dog to move around and if urgent, relieve himself (although most Jindos will refuse to go in the kennel).

I'm of the opinion that this Korean method of confinement is best if you have a known escaper and wish to keep your dog outside.
 

2.  Crate or Cage.
 

This method is advocated by American dog owners.  The principal behind the crate is that  in the wild, dogs and wolves need a den or hide-a-way for their home. Except for hunting, eliminating, playtime and protection, they spend hours sleeping, eating or relaxing in their den.  The crate/cage just becomes their substitute den and can keep the dog confined inside the house without any danger of escaping or chewing something inappropriate.  After the dog becomes trustworthy in the house, the dog can be kept loose within the house as a means of confinement.

Here's a link regarding crate/cage training:
Cage Hide-A-Way

3. Tether, Chain

Originally, I was against the use of chains and tethers in a suburban setting, but after reading research on the matter and how animal rights extremists have distorted the issue, I am modifying that position.  Here is an article written by Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine on the matter:
 

Study Abstract from the Journal of Applied Animal Welfare Science:
2001, Vol. 4, No. 4, Pages 257-270

This study compared general activity and specific behaviors of 30
adult Alaskan sled dogs, 19 male and 11 female dogs, on 3.5 m tethers
and in 5.9 m2 pens. The investigators used activity level and
steriotypies as indicators of welfare. The dogs spent most of their
time inactive, either lying or sitting both on the tether and in the
pen. They had more opportunity for interaction with one another but
less space in the pen (5.9 m2 in the pen vs. 38.5 m2 on the tether).
Standing on the hind legs (p < .05) occurred more frequently in the
pens; circling was more frequent on the tethers (p < .05). The U.S.
Department of Agriculture approves penning but not tethering of dogs;
however, the behavior of the dogs in this study did not indicate an
improvement in welfare in pens.

Like ALL methods of containments, there will be ignorant or malicious people who use tethering inappropriately so that the dog is under abuse.  However, I've also know of Jindos who spent time on tethers that still received plenty of human interaction and care and are not aggressive or frustrated dogs.  It depends on the owner and the context.
 

The collar needs to be appropriate.  A limited slip collar seems to offer the best compromise between safety and yet stopping escapes.

The tether length should be long enough so that the dog could relieve itself but also short enough so that the dog couldn't hang itself by jumping a fence.

The area needs to be clear of debri that would entangle and shorten the tether.

The point of attachment to both the stationary object and the dog's collar needs to swivel freely.

Shelter / shade needs to be available throughout the day.  A dog that is covered by shade in the morning could lose its shade by noontime.  A dog that is out on a clear morning could end up soaked if it rains while the owner is away.  For people in winter climates, a dog needs good insulaton from the weather.  (Yes, even a double-coated breed like a Jindo needs protection from the elements.)  Dog house openings should be orientated so wind can not blow directly inside it.  Straw sold in livestock stores can offer a inexpensive way to add insulation inside a dog house, however, the straw should be checked regularly and replaced so the dog remains clean and dry.

Fresh water should be available at all times in a container that cannot tip over.  For people in winter climates, owners need to make sure that the water is not frozen solid.

The dog should be fed at regular intervals.  I don't recommend leaving out huge amounts of food as it attracts ants and makes the food unconsumable.

The dog should be acclimated to the tether under supervision.

The dog should never be in a situation where he/she is teased by people.

The dog should be given times to stretch his/her legs and exercise off the tether.  The exercise should not just be a jaunt around the yard, but a time to stimulate the mind, tire the body, and reinforce the bond between dog and owner.

The dog should NEVER be ignored by the owner or family.  A dog is a living animal with needs and feelings.  Tethering is a tool to help people live WITH dogs.  If the owner or family has no desire to interact with the dog and live WITH the dog, then they should not be owning a dog in the first place.